After paying too much for a mediocre dinner on the quiet winter streets of old Istanbul’s Sultanhamet area, we hopped in a cab in search of something less mediocre and more awesome.
An adventure to Taksim is what happened. Under the bright lights of Istanbul’s extraordinary skyline, our yellow taksi made its way through horrendous traffic and over a bridge swarming with midnight fishermen (“fishing is like poker in turkey”, it has been explained).
A pedestrian street with too many pedestrians. Bright lights, music blaring from underground clubs. Street vendors selling rice-filled mussels with lemon, and roasted chestnuts under little awnings of red and white stripes. A club named Box. “It’s our friend’s birthday and we can’t get into the club without girls… join us?” And we were upstairs, dancing to Turkish lightbulb music on a floor that was decidedly bouncy. Many a dance with a Turkish man. And then onwards. To an underground club so full of people you couldn’t turn around without brushing against 300 of them. Seizure lights on the dancefloor. And onwards again with a new Turkish friend, to an upstairs pub with 3TL pints (a dollar eighty, folks). Thoughts of calling it a night. Thoughts dismissed. Onwards again, and then onwards again to a Pide Restaurant. Delicious decision. 5:30 am, cab ride home. Got lost. Then found. In the door at 6:30am. Saturday night in Taksim.
We slept through breakfast. We slept through checkout. We slept through til 1pm, and only emerged because we had to move to catch a train.
This train is scheduled to depart the Istanbul Haydarpasha station at 4pm and arrive in Kayseri at 9am (Kayseri is about an hour and a half away from Goreme, one of the main cities in the Cappadocian region so we’re pretty excited!). But seventeen hours on a train, and there’s no restaurant, food cart… or babushka to be seen? ;)
A beeline for the train station concession stand. Throwing in handfuls of whatever we can find – nuts, simit (round sesame-seed hard bagel type Turkish concoctions), chicken donairs and bottles of water. The train leaves at 5 minutes after 4pm.
Two beds to a room. A real ladder to reach the upper bunk. A sink, a mirror, a fridge! We settle into our home for the night, pulling down the top bunk, spreading out the goodies we’ve bought (and received! My Mom sent me a few birthday treats), and setting up the computer for an evening of movies while the train takes us southeast through the Turkish wilderness.
It’s a clear night; the stars are hanging like diamonds. We’re told we’ll arrive “sometime between 9 and 11am”. Thanks, that’s not vague at all. And also they definitely don’t announce the station stops (I’m hoping for some luck on this one in the morning). Meg and Nicole are asleep in the next room over… Goodnight! Let this train take us onwards, to the middle of Turkey..? :)
Very cool post. One of my favorite memories of Istanbul is dancing the night away in one of the clubs, also after an overpriced dinner in Sultanhamet! Taksim is FULL of people and it can be really hard to make any forward progress on a weekend night! But the energy is awesome.
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What an experience eh?! I couldn’t believe how many people were there – the vibe was electric! And to think we nearly didn’t go at all! Very cool spot. :)
Taksim is fun.
International problem, people posing for a video..haha
So who told you to take a train to Cappadocia? Bad advice
Oh we LOVED the train to Cappadocia! There’s something nice about moving slowly across the country, having the ability to get up and walk around, and visit locals in different cabins…. there’s an air of magic about it I think. Much better than the overnight bus…. I hate those things! (even though Turkey has, by far, the nicest night buses I’ve ever seen) :)
I can’t go to that place due to some instance but I’ve enjoy reading this post and I feel the excitement to be more productive to be able to travel around the world in point to point sooner or later. Thanks for sharing this good memories of yours Kristina.
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Thanks Xian. Sorry you can’t visit Taksim, but hopefully you’ll get to bounce around the globe soon enough. :)
there’s an air of magic about it I think. One of my favorite memories of Istanbul is dancing the night away in one of the clubs, also after an overpriced dinner in Sultanhamet!
Haha, too funny! There’s definitely a bit of a magical feel to it, isn’t there? Glad you enjoyed your time, and thanks for the comment! :)
So who told you to take a train to Cappadocia? There’s something nice about moving slowly across the country, having the ability to get up and walk around, and visit locals in different cabins….
You’re absolutely right. I love getting up, walking about, meeting locals… After taking the train across Russia, I decided travel by rail is probably my favourite method of moving across long distances. Everyone we spoke to in Turkey suggested the bus was the best way to get from Istanbul to Cappadocia (less time, newer facilities), but we were set on the train. And even though it took the better part of 24 hours, I’m glad we did :). Thanks for the comment!
Hope you guys had fun.
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